Tomatoes never tire me. I cannot stay away from their sweet-tart beckoning. As their season keeps peaking, I dress them in different coats to keep my table bright and varied. Here is one idea:

Find one of those large, humpy tomatoes — like a Marvel Stripe or a Cherokee Purple — make sure they are firm but ripe. Press their skins gently and look for a lingering indent that brings a little shade to the bright color.

Place a few thin slices of red onion in iced water with 2 or 3 tablespoons of vinegar and let them wallow.

Carve the tomato in irregular mouth-size wedges, place in a bowl, season with salt and pepper to suit your palate, and toss. ...